Tuesday, July 05, 2005

J'taime Paris!

I heart Paris THIS much! It seriously rocked my world. Napolean may have been a slimy little man intent on world domination, and the Kings of France may have pillaged their own people, but they left some amazing architecture in their wake. That's the first thing that struck me about Paris - although it has its horrible parts like any city - is that it is so pretty. Big tree-lined boulevardes and amazing, decadent buildings... *sigh!*

Although I was there for four days, I still didn't see everything I wanted to see, but I gave it a really good shot! So here's la recap, avec photographique.

Day One - Thursday
After an early start, I was on my way to fair Paris on the Eurostar. We pulled into Gare du Nord and I found my way to my hotel...and got a tad confused and realised that yes, my hotel was right near a train station, but not a Metro station. The Metro is the Parisian version of the tube, fairly easy to negotiate and just as reliable in terms of the number of trains per five minutes. So I checked into my hotel, and then went in search of the Arc de Triomph, which I thought was much closer than it actually was. After a fairly length - but enjoyable - walk, I found myself looking at the grandeur that is Napoleon's Arc de Triomph. Walking up the street and seeing that in front of you is just amazing...

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Arc de Triomph - note that it's now the middle of a massive roundabout, and a very busy one at that, as it's at the top end of the Champs Elysees.

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Looking up at the Arc de Triomph from underneath.

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The tomb of the unknown soldier and the eternal flame. On my second day as I was walking back to the hotel there was a ceremony going on to mark WW2, and Jacques Chirac was there, as well as a navy band and some other military contingent. The poor guys were standing there in the pouring rain for this ceremony, getting absolutely drenched!

I then climbed to the top of the Arc which afforded an amazing view of the Champs Elysees, the Sacre Couer and, everyone's favourite, L'Eiffel Tour!

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The Sacre Couer from the Arc de Trimoph

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Champs Elysees

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Me, at the top of the Arc! I climbed so many freakin' stairs on my holiday, this was the first climb - 230 steps!

From the Arc de Trimoph I walked down the Champs Elysees, perhaps the most famous stretch of shopping in the world, and the most luxurious! Picture pairs of shoes on display for 1000 Euro, as standard!

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Shopping, shopping, shopping...

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The massive Louis Vuitton bag - I could so live in that! Paris, for those who haven't heard, is in the running for the Olympics for 2012...as is London, which only adds to the never-ending rivalries between England and France. Front page of all the papers today was something along the lines of 'Chirac's Tirade Against Blair' ... it's fairly standard.

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The Cartier store...sigh! Diamonds are a girl's best friend!

I walked the length of the Champs Elysees and ended up at the Louvre. The Louvre was originally a Palace, built by one of the Louis' and the complex bankrupted the city. After the revolution, it was claimed by the people and became an art gallery, open to the people. It is just an amazing building - absolutely HUGE! I got there an hour before closing, so while there were no queues, I only got a running look at it. I'll have to go back and spend at least half a day there ... we all know what an art freak I am and I can happily spend hours in galleries, so I'm disappointed I didn't see it all. But there's always next time!

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The Louvre

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Maybe the highlight of my trip - THE Mona Lisa:). You don't get much better than that.

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The Venus de Milo, aka. Aphrodite

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Inside the Louvre

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The Winged Victory

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Another inside shot - this is such a tiny section of the building, but it gives a good idea of just how big it is

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One of the ornate ceilings...

On the way to the Louvre, you walk through the Place de Concorde. These days its a massive roundabout, but back in the days of the Revolution it was where the guillotine was set up, and where Louis and Marie Antoinette lost their heads.


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The Place de Concorde holds an Egyptian obelisk, and was in the throes of being set up for Bastille Day.

By this time it was getting a little late, but it was still light until about 10pm. I headed back to the hotel courtesy of a red tour bus. For 22 euro, you get a two-day pass on these busses and can hop on and off as you please at any of their designated stops. They're open top busses, like the ones you see in London. There's also a rival company of green busses. They seem to do bigger, different circuits - up to Montmatre. Anyway, I had bought a ticket and, on my way home, drove past Notre Dame. I had dinner at a lovely little restaurant, and then stayed up to call my lil sis - HAPPY 15th BIRTHDAY AMMIE!


Day Two - Friday

After breakfast at the hotel, consisting of croissants of course, I headed off to get to the Eiffel Tower as early as possible. I got there about 10 minutes after it opened and only had to line up with ten people in front of me. I then hopped on the lift and it was up to the top of the tower. Although it has to be the most stereotypical thing to do/see in Paris, it really is incredible to stand underneath it and be at the top. Coolest. Thing. Ever.

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From the bottom...

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...to the Top!

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Trocadero, from the Tower

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Champs de Mars from the Tower

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Arc de Triomph and the Champs Elysees

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After the Tower I popped across the road to Trocadero, and then back on a Red bus and down to Notre Dame.

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The front of Notre Dame

As expected Notre Dame was incredible. It is absolutely massive! Not to mention incredibly ornate and spectacular in its detail. You can take photos inside, but it just didn't feel right, in a church. But being the good Catholic girl that I am *wink wink* I gave a small donation and lit a candle. As to Notre Dame, imagine if you can huge high domed ceilings, small chapels all around the permimetre, equisite statues, mosaics...it's amazing. I then lined up and climbed the towers...400 steps later! "Buns of steel" became my mantra in Paris.

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One of the infamous gargoyles overlooking Paris.

After Notre Dame, I went to meet up with Jody under the Arc de Triomph. She had been in Paris for a conference, and Friday was our day to meet up. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, every trip I make I seem to learn something from my mistakes. This time, it was remember your phone charger and to organise to be able to top up your phone credit over the phone... So after finding a phone card (in Paris, you can only use a phone booth with a phone card which you buy at little stores), and then finding a phone booth, I contacted Jody and we met up. She was a little under the weather, so we had a great lunch on Champs Elysees. If there's one thing I love about Paris more than its art and culture, it's the food! I ate SO MUCH the four days I was there...mmm...croissants, pain au chocolats, crepes, fromage, French wine ... needless to say the gym is my friend every night this week, and I'm still feeling ill after eating all the things that I can't eat. But yes...foooooood....

We headed back to our hotel to get ready for our entertainment for the evening - The Moulin Rouge! Yes, it's expensive, but so worth it. We had great seats - right next to the stage. The food could have been better, given the price, but it's a once in a lifetime thing. Unfortunately you can't take photos inside - you have to hand your cameras in before entry - but you'll just have to believe me when I say the show was a mix of "spectacular spectacular no words in the vernacular", cheesy EuroVision dance and music, and comedy and acrobatic acts. Very cool. It's smack-bang in the middle of Montmatre, the red light district of Paris, but we still felt very safe despite all the sleazy men.

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Me outside the Moulin Rouge

Day Three - Saturday

So we didn't get away as early as I would've liked on Sunday, because the Kiwis were playing the Lions and Jody was glued to the TV. But after her day was brightened by their win, we headed off to the Basilique du Sacre Couer (Basilica of the Sacred Heart). It's this amazing church on the top of the highest hill in Paris, in the Montmatre district. If you've seen Amelie, the scene where she returns the book of pictures to that guy - the stairs there are here at Sacre Couer. It's a lovely church, I actually liked it better than Notre Dame...just so peaceful and very beautiful. We climbed to the top (buns of steel!) and had a great view of Paris.

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Jody on our way up the hill

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On the steps

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Jody and I

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View from the top!

From there we wandered down through Montmatre and towards the George Pompidou centre, after a failed attempt to go on a boat tour up the River Siene. The Pompidou centre is full of modern art and design. But on the way we discovered a whole lot of awesome backstreets filled with cafes and shops. Again the 'Paris is Great for Food' mantra came into play. We indulged in ice-cream (I forgot to mention it was REALLY hot in Paris Saturday and Sunday) - the best I've ever had! I had dark chocolate and a scoop of blackberry *drools*. We ate our ice-cream while sitting next to the centre, watching a magic show and taking in the Paris afternoon. We didn't have time to do much in the centre, so that's also on my 'next time I'm in Paris' list.

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The outside of the centre...

After dinner at a little restaurant near the hotel we ate a whole lot of cheese and drank red wine. Mmmm...cheese. French camembert is GOLD.

Day Four - Sunday

Sunday morning we headed off the the Paris Catacombs. At some point in the 18th century the French, in their infinite wisdom, said "Our cemeteries are over-crowded. Lets dig up six million skeletons and rebury them in tunnels underground. Only lets stack all the bones neatly and make crosses out of the skulls occasionally!". During WW2, the tunnels were used as the headquarters for the Resistance. Nowadays, it's a tourist attraction...a very macabre one. But we went! Let me just say, it is the creepiest thing I've ever seen. Walking down this long dark damp tunnel into all these 'hallways' lined with real skulls and bones... it's cool in a bizarre way. Jody and I were a little freaked out, and made sure there were other people around us because we were scared little school girls:D. We met up with another Aussie girl down there who was by herself and we invited her to come with us. She was very grateful.

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A very tiny section. You can't use flashes down there, so I apologise for the poor quality of hte picture, but you get the general idea.

From there we headed somewhere more pleasant - the Jardin du Luxembourg. Napolean dedicated these gardens to the children of Paris, and rightly so - they're so cute! Lots of play areas and you can still float model sail boats on the pond. The palace there is also very lovely and, like most palaces, these days acts as a gallery.

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The entry to the gardens, the palace in the far background

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A cute little nook in the gardens

From there we all went in search of food and found the most incredible patisserie. It's impossible to describe it properly - but think of all the most amazing cakes and treats, baked with detail and love... We drooled for ages. From there we took our lunch and treats and sat by the banks of the Seine, where I had my treat - chocolat eclair, the best I've ever had. It was heaven!

From there we walked back up the Champs Elysees with the intention of going to the Chanel store..but I got side-tracked and missed our turn off and by the time I realised we were too far along and I was too bloody hot to care. So we went shopping instead and bought perfume and muppets dolls. I now have my own Waldorf and Statler! And Jody bought me Gonzo (courtesy of a running joke - one of the many sleazy men who stared/talked to us told me I had a 'beautiful nose', and we all know what Gonzo's nose is like...:D We laughed a fair bit over that comment, and others including 'you are so beautiful I'll draw you for free' and 'would you like to do romantic tango with me?').

After that, it was time to head back to London. Apologies for the long entry, but I love Paris so much! I can't wait to go back!

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